Roundup

Bring a Loupe: A Calabrese Baladin, A Royce Professional Marine, A Universal Genève Jump Hour Regulator, And A BWC Chronograph

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Image: Hodinkee

Weston Cutter's Hodinkee column rounds up several vintage watches from current auctions and dealer listings. The highlights are a Pinko-badged Calabrese Baladin wandering-hour watch, a chrome-plated Royce Professional Marine diver, a two-tone Universal Genève jump-hour regulator, and a Lemania 1340-powered BWC chronograph. Cutter explains the appeal of each and notes prices and auction dates.

The original

HodinkeeRoundupBring a Loupe

Bring a Loupe: A Calabrese Baladin, A Royce Professional Marine, A Universal Genève Jump Hour Regulator, And A BWC Chronograph

By Weston Cutter

Weston Cutter of Hodinkee picks several vintage watches on auction and dealer listings for the Bring a Loupe column. The set includes a black-dial Pinko Vincent Calabrese Baladin wandering-hour watch offered for €4,900, which Cutter praises for its playful letter display. Cutter is drawn to a chrome-plated Royce Automatic Professional Marine dive watch with an estimate of €800 to €12,000, while questioning why anyone would choose plated divers. The Universal Genève jump hour regulator reference 225.125 from Huntington Company is singled out for its design, though Cutter finds the $8,900 price high. The column closes with a BWC chronograph powered by the Lemania 1340, which Cutter values for its central minute counter track.

  • The Royce dive watch's chrome plating is hard to justify for a diver, yet the example is appealing.
  • The Universal Genève jump hour's design looks far older than its 1990s origin.
  • The $8,900 price for the Universal Genève seems high compared with earlier examples.
  • The minute counter track on the BWC Lemania 1340 chronograph dial is a charming detail.
Read at Hodinkee